Fine dine residencies to put the pizazz back into Australia’s dining culture

News of British chef Simon Rogan transporting his Cumbrian fine-diner L’Enclume to the Bathers’ Pavilion at Balmoral Beach for a five-week residency from July 19 until August 20, is part of a growing trend of international chefs bringing their sought after experiences to Australia.

Rogan’s residency will be the second three-star Michelin event for Sydney, following the success of French restaurant Mirazur’s residency at The Gantry at Pier One in March.

The residency is three years in the making, with Bathers’ Pavilion owners Jessica Shirvington and Ian Pagent putting it on hold when the pandemic hit.

“It was a meeting of minds … that through the COVID years only strengthened the relationship,” Shirvington told thew AFR. “It was a blessing.”

The world’s best chefs have long seen Australia as a prime destination to embed themselves in local culture, food and the country’s growing love for culinary experiences.

Mirazur chef Mauro Colagreco told the Financial Review, “You need people who love food and are in the habit of eating in a restaurant like Mirazur.”

Colagreco is now considering potential residencies in Japan or Mexico.

In 2015, Heston Blumenthal brought The Fat Duck to Melbourne for a sold-out six-month stay, while Rene Redzepi’s Noma spent 10 weeks  in Sydney’s Barangaroo and sold out in seconds.

Noma recently took his team to Kyoto for a 10-week run, ending in late May this year.

Crown Melbourne continues to be on the lookout for similar experiences.

There’s something a little different coming from there we want to try … a couple of cuisines well-represented there, but not so much here,” explains Crown’s executive general manager of food and beverage, Enda Cunningham who is in talks with of Michelin-star chefs in the UK.

In November 2022, Crown hosted Sri Lanka’s Ministry of Crab, ranked 35 on last year’s Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants and in May 2023, Melbourne’s The Real Greek Chef, Giannis Kalyvas occupied the Evergreen dining room.

Cunningham believes these residencies are the key to re-engaging people with Melbourne’s dining scene.

“We’re about to go through a major redevelopment over the next few years focused on returning Crown to the pinnacle of hospitality in Australia,” he said.

Other high-end restaurants are in talks with Michelin starred chefs.

Darren Chen of Chef World Tour is looking to engage a chef from either from Asia or South America later in the year in Sydney and Melbourne.

Chen’s business model focuses on creating an international restaurant residency circuit around rock-star chefs.

“The way we see it is the chef is the artist, the restaurant his studio, the menu the album, and we are the touring agent,” Chen told the AFR.

He notes the difference between residencies and pop ups.

“Most hotels and restaurants do pop-ups as a promotion to boost foot traffic,” he said. “We do residencies for our long-term business.” 

Jonathan Jackson - 8-6-23