Amanda Reboul and James St food initiative tempts diners to taste truffle treasures

Whether you are a truffle aficionado or simply wondering what all the fuss is about, now is the time to try one of Australia's most expensive crops. The little treasures retail for $2200 a kilogram, but experts urge us not to be put off by the price.

Amanda Reboul, known as the truffle lady by Brisbane foodies, said it was impossible to understand the allure of truffles until you had tried them unadulterated.

Truffle lady Amanda Reboul will host two truffle events in James St, including an event at Bucci with head chef Shaun Malone.

"Truffle oil is used in a lot of things, it's not going to kill anyone, but it's artificial and can be overpowering, so people think, 'oh I don't like that' or, when you try real truffle, the taste is too subtle and not what they expect."

She will host truffle dinners at several Fortitude Valley restaurants as part of James St's food trail initiative, which kicks off today. The dinner at Bucci restaurant sold out and head chef Shaun Malone said he hoped to break down preconceptions about the favoured fungus.

"It's one of those untouchable things, like foie gras and caviar. People think it's too expensive, so they get scared. It's up to people like Amanda to educate people."

Mrs Reboul's business, the Truffle Man, sells to retail and restaurant clients. While business is taking off for truffle growers in Tasmania, Western Australia and the ACT, it's impossible to know how much is produced nationally each year.

"It's a big secret, growers are really cagey and will never tell you how much they produce. It's like diamonds; they'll never release all of them to the market because they'll lose value," Mrs Reboul said, adding that all regions claimed theirs was best and, while the price generally remained fixed, this year it was down by about $100 a kilogram.

"Manjimup (Western Australia) are nicer this year but it's much of a muchness, like comparing a sauvignon blanc from Margaret River to one from the Barossa. They're all grown with the same French truffle spores."

She warned buyers to be careful of below-par truffles sold for cheaper prices, as they would not be fresh or have a true truffle flavour.

"They should be firm, have a distinct smell, earthy that's not plastic-y and be black in the middle with only a little bit of white. When they age, they don't have that distinct smell."

If you fancy taking a truffle for a spin at home, a 50g one costs around $110 and will serve a dinner party of 10 people. Mrs Reboul recommended allowing 2-3g for an entree and 5g for a main. One gram will yield two to three large flakes.

"Wrap the truffle in some paper towel and store it in an airtight container, with a couple of eggs, as the porous shells will let the egg absorb the flavour. Make sure you change the paper every few days. They should last up to 10 days. Rice isn't the best thing to store them with, as it tends to lose the flavour when cooked and it can dehydrate the truffle."

As for the menu, Mr Malone suggested keeping it simple.

"Just shave them over warm pasta with garlic butter. It should be more of an experience, so the aroma really hits you in the face."

In Brisbane, fresh truffles are available through thetruffleman.com.au, Black Pearl Epicure, Fortitude Valley, and Superior Fruit, Graceville.

For information on the truffle dinners, go to jamesst.com.au.

Breakout

Everybody's truffling: where to try truffle.

• Brent's Restaurant, Toowong: Lobster, jamon and truffle croquette (appetiser, $8)
• Restaurant Two, City: Celeriac veloute, barramundi mousse, Tasmanian truffle cream (starter, $30)
• Ristorante Tartufo, Fortitude Valley: Linguine with wild and cultivated mushrooms, butter, sage and truffle (entree, $26)
• Stokehouse, South Bank: Pistachio-crusted Rannoch farm quail, parmesan and truffle cream, watercress (entree, $25)
• Bistro Alegria, Milton: Scallops, black truffle, celeriac puree, crisp jamon
• and mustard cress salad (entree, $32.90)
• Chill on Tedder, Main Beach: Snapper, celeriac puree, truffle jus (main, $34)
• Bistro One Eleven, City: Barramundi, cauliflower, peas, Jerusalem artichokes, fresh truffle (main, $36)

Source: Courier Mail, 3 August 2013