Region emerges as gourmet food bowl

In the 107 years since Italian brothers Archimedes and Jack Fontanini sought out the tallest karri trees in the region and bought the land beneath them, there is little that has not grown on the Manjimup property.

From tobacco and potatoes to apples, avocados and nuts, the "Fonty" farm and others like it have diversified and survived through the ups and downs of the region's history.

"Tobacco faded, then the timber industry came and went and then cauliflowers did the same," third-generation grower Tony Fontanini explained this week. "But Manjimup will pull through from anything, we always do."

Thanks to a group of local producers, who form the Southern Forests Food Council, the region is cementing its status as one of Australia's major food bowls, with the potential to become an international culinary tourism destination.

The most significant step in this process came yesterday when the council, funded through the Royalties for Regions SuperTowns scheme, launched its regional brand Genuinely Southern Forests.

This will group produce from Manjimup, Northcliffe, Walpole and Pemberton under one brand, with the aim of growing the food industry and creating jobs and tourism opportunities.

Harvey Giblett, who owns Newton Orchards, said it heralded "the start of the future" for the region. "We've always had a lot of bad press for industries coming and going, and I'm really excited to see Manjimup finally being identified for good reasons," he said. "We can push this area for the tremendous values it has."

Those values include an excellent water supply, an isolation that protects the area from pests and diseases and some of the most fertile soil in the world.

When Newton Orchards' Nic Giblett and Paul Good tried to add extra guests to their booking at a renowned Sydney restaurant, it took only two words to sway management: Manjimup and truffles. Such is the region's reputation, the owner got on the phone and said he would be delighted to welcome them.

Spearheading this reputation is its black gold, the truffle, but the Southern Forests also have wineries, a burgeoning organic industry and more than 50 varieties of fruit and vegetables.

The rustleberry is unique to Phil and Kay Gravett's Manjimup property and used by Restaurant Amuse chef Hadleigh Troy.

The berries are among the local produce showcased by chef Sophie Zalokar, who with husband Chris holds weekly seasonal dinners at their Pemberton restaurant Foragers.

Mr Zalokar said the region had huge potential as a food and wine destination. "It's amazing all the produce that is here, it's the food bowl of WA," he said.

While the industry continues to suffer because of cheap imports, SFFC chairman Bevan Eatts is confident that by educating consumers they will win the war.

"We have some of the highest growing standards in the world," he said. "It's a hidden gem and we want to introduce it to the world."

Source: The West Australian, 9 November 2013