The Malaya reopens near Circular Quay
The Malaya has reopened at Grosvenor Place, Circular Quay, serving its signature prawn laksa from Thursday, April 17. The move marks the restaurant’s third home in Sydney since Wong Tai See first opened the family-run restaurant’s doors in 1963 at the southern end of George Street.
In its early years, The Malaya adapted to the scarcity of Asian ingredients—coconut milk, for instance, was replaced with cow’s milk in its laksa, a now-iconic dish that remains unchanged today. “Our parents never put any pressure on us to follow them into the business,” Duan Wong told Good Food, reflecting on the journey he and sister Isabella Wong have taken to continue the family legacy.
Both siblings were young during the restaurant’s relocation to King Street Wharf in 2001, where it remained for 24 years until closing last month. “I was 12 and Isabella was eight,” Duan said. Their memories of the final night at the Wharf remain vivid, marked by a heartfelt ovation for long-serving staff and customers requesting candles as keepsakes.
Following the death of their father, Lance Wong, in 2018, the pair stepped into leadership roles. Their parents had already modernised the restaurant, introducing fresh Asian ingredients and a contemporary design. Now, Duan and Isabella continue to build on that legacy with input from their mother and touches of their own—reinstalling Finnish-designed chairs, transferring a vintage floor light, and retaining Lance’s wine collection.
The new venue features seating for 180 guests indoors and 60 on a terrace, and while larger overall, its tiered design results in fewer seats than before. Menu changes are minimal, mindful of The Malaya’s loyal customer base. “Most regulars head straight to their favourite dishes,” said Isabella Wong.
Staples such as coconut beef rendang and kapitan prawns remain, with additions like a pork belly and glass noodle dish, and a Penang gelato dessert developed with Ciccone & Sons. Drinks consultant Ed Loveday has refreshed the cocktail list.
Despite the site's chequered history, the team is confident. “We’re surrounded by some of the city’s best hotels,” said Duan Wong. “This new space gives Duan and me the chance to bring a few touches of our own to the restaurant, without changing what The Malaya has always been.”
Jonathan Jackson, 17th April 2025
