Expect the unexpected

In an episode of the TV series Kung Fu starring David Carradine, two young Shaolin novices had been set upon by strangers and were asked by the abbot what they had learnt from this encounter. One answered "Beware of strangers" and was immediately told to pack his bags and go home; the juvenile Carradine character, Kwai Chang Caine, of course, gave the right answer "Expect the unexpected" - which is what you should expect from Shanghai Flavour.

It is in an out-of-the way corner of Northbridge tucked in off William Street between Walson Foods and Atlantic Seafood, and must be one of the smallest restaurants in Perth - it seats about 30 in relative comfort, although the layers of gossamer- plastic tablecloth were somewhat challenging.

You may find the list of dishes a bit of a challenge too since a number are not commonly found on the menus of Perth's Chinese restaurants.

Xiao Long Bao, or soup dumplings ($7 for 6), for example, are a rarity here. The meat filling is wrapped in aspic inside the skin, and steaming melts the aspic to make a soup-filled dumpling - very delicious, as they say. Shui Jiao, or boiled dumpling, is a staple in northern China, and the ones at Shanghai Flavour are the real McCoy. At $12.50 for 14 it's a bargain, and while the pork filling is fairly bland, the astringent soy, sugar and vinegar dipping sauce contrasts brilliantly.

Salt and pepper squid ($18.90) was not quite what we expected. It comprised quite large pieces of very tender, moist squid in a terrific delicate batter. It could have done with a dipping sauce but was pretty good, nonetheless.

Hot and spicy beef fillet with vegetables in a hot pot ($23.90) was perhaps the most remarkable of the dishes we tried. It is not for the faint-hearted because the serve is quite large and it is tongue- numbingly hot, being laced with Szechuan peppers. A thick, rich, dark, soy and sugar-sour broth conceals a cornucopia of vegetables, tender beef and authentic, thin Shanghai noodles, which are similar to, but different from, the rice vermicelli you may be used to. Eating them with chopsticks, even for an expert chopstick wielder, was a challenge.

Garlic chilli ribs ($17.90) were more conventionally prepared but the hot and spicy pork shreds with onion and bean sprouts ($15.90), while visually not particularly appealing, knocked our socks off taste-wise. We couldn't stop eating it, despite being replete.

For those who are used to the more conventional fare of a "typical" Chinese restaurant, some of the flavours here may be a test. I would, nonetheless, recommend taking young Caine's advice: take the challenge, enjoy yourself, expect the unexpected.

Shanghai Flavour

Address: Shop 2/375 William Street, Northbridge

Phone: 9227 1782

Open: Wednesday-Monday: 11.00am-2.30pm, 5.30-9.30pm

The buzz: This is a restaurant where expat Shanghai families go for a taste of home. It's also one of those restaurants where no matter how good your meal, you tend to look at what other diners are eating and wonder if you should have ordered theirs. But with most mains under $25 and entrees between $7 and $20, over time you could probably afford to work your way through the entire menu.

13/20

Source: The West Australian, 15 August 2013