Brisbane restaurants: Review of restaurant The Balfour Kitchen in New Farm
Brisbane, in particular, has welcomed Lennons Restaurant, in the city’s Next Hotel, Chur Burger in Fortitude Valley’s Tryp, and Thomson’s Reserve, in Spring Hill’s chic New Inchcolm Hotel.
Before the openings and the flurry of publicity that came with them, New Farm had The Balfour Kitchen, in Spicers Balfour Hotel, just off busy Brunswick St.
Previously closed to all but hotel guests, the restaurant has remained something of a secret to most city slickers.
The building stands as an impressive Queenslander, with most of the dining tables on the wraparound deck. In early spring, there are blankets draped over the chairs for guests to ward off the chill.
Thoughtful touches continue with a complimentary amuse bouche (a little sandwich of wafer-thin rice crackers with cod brandade), chewy sourdough and whipped butter. When we ask for a wine to match our shared entrees, our waiter suggests a half-glass pairing for each dish – Flametree chenin blanc and a new-to-the-list rose – rather than one for both.
Good suggestions, too, with enough kick in the rose to cut through the rich, smoked egg yolk puree ribboned with harissa sauce, alongside a textbook chicken thigh galantine ($17), topped with Jerusalem artichoke crisps.
Scallops ($18) are seared beautifully, with delicate ribbons of pickled kohlrabi and sea urchin, turned into puree that tones down that polarising iodine hit and ups the butteriness.
Mains were lovely, but did not hit the same high notes. We wanted to see how a classic kitchen would treat roast duck paired with grilled onions, peking sauce, cucumber and fennel. But the peking flavour did not really come through and it felt a little like meat (albeit well-cooked) with veg.
Suckling pig ($35) packed plenty of flavour, with roasted apple and lemon thyme, but there was no promised heat of the nduja spreadable salami.
Perhaps the pizzazz was saved for dessert. The salted chocolate ganache
($15) had a hell of a lot going on, with a quenelle of ganache, orange cake, yuzu curd, jubes, mousse and a handful of other bits and pieces.
It is a solid restaurant, especially given the prices and setting, and I suspect it would be even better knowing you had the option to retire upstairs to the rooftop bar or a luxury suite.
Its a la carte offering is an endangered beast these days and, if you are suffering food-trend fatigue, Balfour makes for a refreshing alternative.
Source: The Courier-Mail, Sharnee Rawson, 23rd September 2015
Originally published as: Brisbane restaurants: Review of restaurant The Balfour Kitchen in New Farm
