If ever there was a dish that so comforted the soul of our city, Philippe Mouchel’s rotisserie chicken would surely be it.

When 18 months ago news his mod brasserie on Exhibition St, PM24, was to be no more, many felt for the chef who’s been a towering fixture of Melbourne’s dining landscape for more than two decades but mainly they mourned the loss of his roast chicken.

Deja Vue, on St Kilda Rd, Melbourne is known for its chook. (Picture: Nicole Cleary)

It’s little wonder, then, on this cold Tuesday evening the phrase most overheard from the handful of tables is “it’s great to have you back”.

And, judging by the way he made rounds of the floor, I reckon chef’s pretty rapt to be back, too. And with a seven month pop-up that’s vying for this year’s best name.

Those who breakfasted or lunched, brunched or boozed at the St Kilda Road outpost of Café Vue will spot nary a difference save Philippe at the pass at Deja Vue. The whalebone corset dining pod, the pink cushioned white bentwood chairs, the communal table and parquetry floors are all present and accounted for. The glass cabinets, too, that are filled to bursting with cafeteria fare during the day but seem overwhelmingly forlorn when the lights are dim.

The famous rotisserie chicken. (Picture: Nicole Cleary)

Such is the challenge of the early-through-late operation, and, while the candles and double-set tables with lovely cutlery and linen napkins go a long way to announcing that dinner is different, the space never completely loses its daytime cafe coat.

But, let’s face it. No one’s here for the view. And that chicken really is the stuff of dreams if you, like me, tend to dream of roast chicken.

A skin as handsomely tanned and fastidiously maintained as George Clooney’s covers Bannockburn meat that’s lemon-herby succulent and butter-ly delicious. A silken sauce made from the roasted juices captures all the rich toastiness that elevates roast chicken to the last-meal status it so widely enjoys. Perfect roast potatoes, roasted garlic cloves and a hit of celeriac puree that tempers the heavenly with earthy pleasure and you really do have a best-ever plate ($35).

There are, of course, other things to eat, many of which almost hit equal heights. A double-baked cheese souffle does a disappearing act so impressive it’s like the Copperfield of the food world, just less creepy. The golden dome that’s all cheesy savoury air is served with mounds of fresh broad beans cooked to various textures topped with crisp fried shallots ($30).

It makes a perfect light supper, especially with a glass of crisp Eden Valley riesling (Mount Adam, $10) chosen from the tight, expensive-ish list that divides its time equally between here and France, much like many of the South Yarra/St Kilda Rd locals who make up most of the clientele.

The charcuterie board spots a deeply rich and velvety parfait. (Picture: Nicole Cleary)

I’d be more than happy settling in with the laden charcuterie plate ($27). There’s a deeply rich and velvety parfait that’s properly liver-y and topped with pistachio praline for sweet crunch. Deep ruby slices of wagyu bresaola with ribbons of fat swirled through make great friends with the warm, crunchy baguette, as do the thick slices of saucisson. Slivers of prosciutto with a layer of creamy fat are sublime savoured on their own, with traditional cornichons teamed with pickled radish and baby carrots for extra sharp colour. Finally, a small square of rillettes. With a snow white hat of fat atop the textural pork meat, it’s eye-rollingly good, only bettered with the crostini fingers that somehow manage to be both buttery and light.

Service is of the effortlessly professional model, with a few faces familiar from the PM24 floor. Accommodating, intuitive, it’s good to be in the hands of those who know - and still enjoy – the game. An offer to split the soup into two bowls, for instance, shows hospitality that’s second nature.

Unfortunately the soup – this night split pea and ham, $15 – was more miss than hit. Though I liked the nuggets of crisped ham and rustic crouton chunks scattered atop, the soup was thick to a fault, and lacked any real hock-led depth.

In a different class, the escargot with Parisienne gnocchi is a plate of beauty rich and rare. Light, herby pan-kissed pillows come in a garlic butter sauce that’s judicious and delicious poured over the tender, vegetal shell-less snails. Mushrooms add earthiness with sprinkling of garlic breadcrumbs for crunch. It’s a dish of simple comfort ($16) that belies its technique, just all the best bistro.

With Bastille Day next week, it’s the perfect time experience some Deja Vue and remember what makes French fare so fab. It’s good to have Philippe back.

14/20

Deja Vue

401 St Kilda Rd, Melbourne

dejavue.com.au

Mon-Fri 7am-10pm; Sat 5pm-10pm

Highlight: The chook is back

Lowlight: It’s just temporary

Source: News Corp - Herald Sun, Dan Stock, July 7^th 2015