Seed Winehouse + Kitchen, Clare, is a welcome idea, but boring

This bistro in Clare, South Australia, has cottage-chic decor, artisan ingredients and is in a town famous for stunning wines. What more do you need?

 

Cheese plate, Seed. Picture: Matt Turner. Source: News Corp Australia

 

 

Seed’s prawn dish. Picture: Matt Turner. Source: News Corp Australia

The Pitch: Clare — the region north of Adelaide — is a diverse agricultural landscape. Cattle, sheep, wheat … But for many Australians, Clare means just one thing: wine. More specifically, riesling. Driving into Clare, the town, is like walking down the riesling aisle of your favourite wine retailer. Names, names, names, baby, and all of them evoking fond drinking memories. As far as we know, despite this powerful vinous identity and the vast industry behind it, the region has never had the kind of restaurant culture seen in districts such as Mornington Peninsula and Margaret River, so a new relaxed country bistro with a wine focus in Clare, the town, is a welcome idea, right?

The reality: Despite an old facade, Seed is something of a slate-floored, ­corrugated iron barn. A few new naked light bulbs do little to modernise the essentially cottage-chic nature of the place, and while the joint’s title suggests some kind of wine focus, there is no real evidence of it beyond a wine list. On a Saturday lunch — prime time, I would have thought — the modest audience is still left wanting, and waiting, by the two floor staff on duty. Clearly not enough.

The cuisine: Seed sells bread rather than incorporating it in the essentially Europe-inspired menu. That’s a pity. The menu breaks down to Small Plates, Larger Plates and To Share. Alongside desserts is an impres­sive list of (mostly imported) cheese. While a lot of produce is artisan-branded — Piambong Farm cherries, for example, or Eagle Spirit pork — some is not. The chicken, for example.

Highlights: On a big lump of slate, the disc of beef tartare is a well-executed standard, with good-quality beef, lattice potato crisps, mustard mayo and a wedge of lemon, which comes with many dishes. “Salted snapper and smoked ham hock croquette’s” (sic) also come with a lemony aioli and lemon, and while they are mostly potato are nevertheless enjoyable. Pillows of potato gnocchi with a gorgonzola cream, some fried sage and candied walnuts are good, too. Pity the walnuts are not the freshest

Lowlights: Olives. They’re big, greenish and really bland. How does that happen up here? (Although the grissini and chunks of parmigiana they’re served with are good). The ill-considered combination (on more slate, with more lemon) of earthy serrano jamon, freshly split and chargrilled Spencer Gulf prawns, and an oddly tangy emulsified lemon-sugar dressing with toasted hazelnuts. Just not sure how these three elements were supposed to work with each other. Half a small chargrilled chicken draped with fresh rocket, cooked rosemary and thyme in a stock-based sauce to which dried chilli has been added. Oh, and of course, another wedge of lemon. It’s just chicken, a little dry, not particularly interesting meat. A waiter cleaning a table with chemical spray while diners eat nearby. A phone that rings, and rings, and rings …

The damage: Well, it’s not expensive, so that’s good.

In summary: Seed lacks energy and entrepreneurial zeal. It’s a bit bloody boring, to be honest.

Address: Seed Winehouse + Kitchen, 308 Main North Road, Clare, SA, (08) 8842 2323, www.seed.kitchen

Hours:Lunch Sat, Sun; dinner Wed-Sun

Style: Regional Australian

Rating: 2 out of 5

Source: The Australian, John Lethlean, July 15^th 2015