Chloe & Kelly review: The revamped Subiaco Hotel
THERE are a few places in Perth that I (Kelly) would class as institutions because they have been around for as long as we can remember.
The Subiaco Hotel fits that category – but with the head chef of 16 years quietly departing earlier this year there will be some nervous locals around.
Hopefully, new chef David Whitting’s CV will help calm the masses.
Could the good old Subi be after a hat of its own?
THE VENUE
The hotel’s restaurant had a serious revamp last year and if you haven’t had a gander, make sure you do. It hasn’t lost any of its charm; the dining experience has only been enhanced. With a huge retractable roof, terrace and swanky cigar room, this old girl is looking pretty damn sexy.
The weather has been woolly over the past couple of weeks, making it difficult for us to get off the couch and out of our PJs. However, the excitement of a new menu and red wine helped with that. The Subiaco Hotel’s wine list is decent. With prices ranging from $38-$700, there is something for everyone. We chose the Joel Gott zinfandel ($40), a toasty Californian number.
Time to order, but food FOMO (fear of missing out) set in. There is nothing worse than secretly craving what the next table is having. With every dish on the new menu sounding amazing, we wanted to try it all. But our dress sizes have been increasing weekly, so we decided to order responsibly and stick to the standard three courses each.
THE FOOD
Entrées were delivered, instantly revealing that this chef has played in the big leagues. The potato and black ash tortellini ($17) looked pretty as can be. Unfortunately, the pasta was a little extra-dente. I am not usually a fan of carb on carb, but the potato filling changed my mind.
The jamón serrano with broad beans ($22) was hard to fault. It’s a salad of sorts with an almond milk cloud as its dressing, and each element had been shown a whole lot of tender love and care.
Mains time, and again visually stunning. The barramundi with lardons and cockles ($39) was perfectly cooked, skin like crackling, and flaky meat on a creamy white bean purée with salty pork strips. So full of flavour. But I’d prefer the cockles pickled to help cut through the rich sauce.
The veal, forest mushrooms and smoked potato ($42) was the next level. The mushrooms had kept their personality and the meat was everything veal should be, but the show stopper was the smoked potato purée. We would have been happy being served a big bowl of that!
We felt it was our duty to try the Subiaco Hotel’s classic: lamb pappardelle with porcini cream ($36.50). For those regulars fearing their Friday lunch might never be the same, take a sigh of relief. The new chef has nailed it.
It was easy to choose dessert: maple and banana brûlée with walnut fluff ($15). We’re not sure about “fluff’ being used on a menu, but despite the wording the dish was fun and everything you could want in a dessert.
We were happy we got off the couch, and that wasn’t just the wine talking. The new menu is impressive. Maybe a hat could be on the cards – the hotel certainly has plenty of room to hang it.
THE VERDICT
Chloe’s verdict: This food is not just good to look at – it’s seriously tasty. Kelly’s verdict: Locals, don’t stress. You’ll love this new menu.
OVERALL VERDICT
Chef David Whitting is a great new addition to this Perth institution.
Address 465 Hay St, Subiaco
Phone 9381 3069
Web subiacohotel.com.au
Open Monday to Wednesday, 7am-midnight; Thursday to Saturday,
7am-1am; Sunday, 7am-midnight
Licensed Yes
Bookings Online
Source: Perth Now, , 21st August 2015
Originally published as: Chloe & Kelly review: The revamped Subiaco Hotel
